A recent archaeological discovery in the ancient Roman city of Pollentia on the Spanish island of Mallorca is rewriting the history of Roman culinary habits. Researchers have provided firm evidence that thrushes—small migratory songbirds—were not only an elite food among Roman nobility, as previously believed, but were also a street food sold and consumed by the general population more than 2,000 years ago.
The evidence, as published in the International Journal of Osteoarchaeology, centers on an excavation of a cesspit near a food shop, or taberna, within the commercial district of Pollentia. The pit, dating to the period between 10 BCE and 30 CE, was connected to the building through an underground drainage system. Within the pit, the archaeologists uncovered a dense quantity of animal remains, including pigs, fish, shellfish, and—most importantly—a total of at least 165 song thrush bones (Turdus philomelos), the most abundant bird remains found.
The location and the nature of the thrush remains contradict the traditional assumptions. Historical records, like those of Pliny the Elder, describe thrushes as expensive luxury foods for the elite that the wealthy enjoyed at expensive banquets. But in this instance, the archaeological context shows they were being offered at street-level food shops and eaten by regular city dwellers.
What makes this discovery so significant is the pattern of the bird bones. The group included numerous breastbones and skulls, but almost none of the meatier limb bones such as femurs or humeri. That shows the birds were prepared so that the most desirable parts were not disturbed and could be eaten, likely by removing the sternum and flattening the bird—a method still used in Mediterranean cooking today.
The seasonal winter thrush migration to Mallorca was apparently taken advantage of by Roman street vendors as a means of providing diversity to their offerings. Thrushes, however, were bred by the upper classes year-round, often being fed with figs and served in elaborate dishes.
While domestic chickens and rabbits were also found in large quantities at the site, it is the prevalence of thrush bones—and their clear commercial context—that caught the attention of researchers. The food shop, outfitted with amphorae embedded into the countertop similar to those found in Pompeii’s thermopolia (ancient fast-food bars), strongly indicates that these birds were sold for immediate consumption.
The finding is not unique. There is evidence like this in Pompeii and even in rural Roman villas in Britain. That supports the idea that food stalls and pop-up eateries were part of Roman everyday life.
The discovery in Pollentia adds depth to the Roman culinary landscape, and it suggests that class-based dietary differences were less strict than previously assumed. The researchers point out that the difference between rich and poor regarding the consumption of thrushes may have been more one of timing and preparation than simply access: the rich consumed them out of season and in refined dishes, while the common sort consumed them fried and fresh in winter.
This research not only dispels traditional descriptions of Roman food culture but also highlights the flourishing street food economy that prevailed in the likes of Pollentia.
